Since Hot Springs the hiking has been fair, but everything is not well. The first day out of Hot Springs (Tuesday) I noticed my ankle hurt a little. It was not a big deal, but the next day it hurt a little more, such that we were moving more slowly than normal and ultimately hiked over an exposed rocky ridge in the dark (there was a nice view of town lights below). Thursday told us that there was something wrong enough to merit a half-day and a bandage, and the hikes through Sunday evening were an absolutely painful (in all senses of the word) crawl. Over the six days my distorted walk played with my other ankle, my shin, and my knee. It hurt to stand, which meant it hurt to go to the bathroom too. The medicine I took did not help, and this time was the most emotionally taxing time of the hike so far. To be honest, I am very afraid that it may put me off of the hike. I hope hope hope that is not so.
When we stumbled into Uncle Johnny's hostel in Erwin, TN at dark on Sunday, I was overwhelmed by the hiker concern. A bag of ibuprofen materialized. People offered food--chips and fresh cherries. Cubit brought the kitty cat for me to play with. Ulysses biked to the store and brought back a bag of ice for my ankle. I got several piggyback rides over the next two days, including one from L'il Cubit--she may be l'il, but she's a beast! Once again, it was nice to see people we knew. Dan, Chuck, Haha, Will, Brotherproof crew, Caleb, Ian. Our dad arrived late Monday (Erwin is not so far from Raleigh) and spent the night in the camp yard with us, and then drove me home today (Tuesday). So yes, I am typing in Wake Forest right now. We will have my ankles checked out. With any luck, I should be able to rejoin my brother after a week or two of rest. I hope very much that that is the case.
Interesting moments over the week: At the top of Big Bald (360 degree view), I met a family from Greensboro, NC. Sunday we passed a campsite to which someone had brought a plastic lawn chair! There was also a register at the site, and we read and added our own exclamations about this chair in the middle of the woods! Tuesday many hikers at the first shelter stoned, skinned, and ate a rattlesnake. Of course I found it appalling ("But it was hanging around the privy sign and rattling at us!") but there you have it. Turns out the woods are actually stocked with these snakes, and there's a fifty dollar fine for killing one. The last three miles into Erwin a local named Dave ran into us, hiked down the mountain, came back to see if we were OK, offered to carry our packs (declined), and followed and conversed with us for the two hours it took me to make it to town. When we reached the road he even told us where he lived and said we could come by if we needed anything at all. People are so nice.
We spent several nights tarped out instead of in shelters last week. It has quite a different social feel. At shelters, the conversation happens loudly out front, and when people crawl into bed it becomes silent. But we shared tarp space a couple of nights, and quiet, hilarious conversations continued after getting into the sleeping bags (e.g. one conversation about hiking naked on the Summer Solstice). It's definitely more intimate, sharing your personal shelter by choice, than is happening to sleep in the built shelter with someone.
If I haven't miscounted, I hiked 200 miles so far, 60 of them in pain. Not bad for a first trip. I have to say that whatever happens with my ankles, I've found a new hobby. Backpacking. I love it. There will definitely be more of this, one way or another.
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